people’s been asking me where i’ve been. hey, i’ve been in the ocean man! i haven’t been surfing so much in my life. and haven’t had so much fun too! the people i’ve been meeting, the waves i’ve been surfing, and the all the fun involved is making everyday so exciting!
take yesterday for example. i went surfing with Goki-san from nara prefecture in japan. Goki-san has been surfing for over 20 years but every time he catches a wave, he’s super excited to be riding again and again. it’s so cool to see so much stoke in his surfing! Goki-san owns a Hawaiian Style Cafe in nara called “ZENBE.” hawaiian food, hawaiian music, hawaiian theme, and a hawaiian guy. Goki-san is more hawaiian then some of my hawaiian friends. big person, big heart! i can’t wait to go to check out Zenbe!!!! Click here for Zenbe.in.
Goki-san’s surf buddy is Kentaro-san. Kentaro-san was once the 2nd draft pick for the Daiei Hawks professional baseball team in japan. but after an arm injury, he pulled out and now his passion is surfing. he’s only been surfing for 5 years but already surfs like a legend.
i’m having a great time surfing small waves, medium waves, and big waves on this island. there are waves for every level of surfing and that’s what makes hawaii the best surf destination in the world. there is just no other place like it. we welcome people from all around the world and if you come surfing with me, you won’t only get good waves, you will get my waves. haha. my job is to provide the best waves to my friends and i love doing that!
i’ve been longboarding once in a while. and guess what? i’m getting better!!! i can actually cross step and walk to the nose. i did lots of hang 5’s and my next step will be a hang 10!
anyway, i’ve been a pretty busy man since 1/1/2012. my new years resolution was to work hard and play harder. so far, so good! have lots of trips planned this year. if i do ever get 5 consecutive days off, i’m jumping on a plane to some country far away! but a 5 day vacation is not going to happen in the near future. oh well! gotta get back to work. have a beautiful day!
