good evening. i went early to the north shore, pulled up to backdoor and had to make a decision. it was 3-5′ and kind of weird. good wave direction, but windy and not too good. i knew that today was probably my last session of the 2008-09 north shore season so i was sitting on the beach wondering what to do. paddle out to backdoor, wait an hour and maybe catch one good one? no, i’m too busy for that. or go to velzyland and catch 40 waves? it took me 1 minute to make my decision and before you know it, i was in my car driving to velzyland. oh my gosh!!! the waves were so good and the lineup was empty. i caught more than 40 waves and got barreled about 8 times. the waves were going off!!! i got out of the water at 9am and was on my way back home. what an awesome way to end off my season. thanks north shore…. but wait, i might go back out there again….
it’s been a while since i trained at the pool. it felt pretty good, except for the stink chlorine smell on my body now… that’s so unhealthy…
i’ve been too dam busy to take photos of the waves recently. this is a half ass photo of laniakea on my way back. chest high and shitty…
i was passing by the new location of Eggs n Things. it was freakin packed at 8am in the morning. i ate there once before and didn’t find anything special, except for the price. 2 eggs, bacon, and rice for $8? wow…. i would be a millionaire if i sold breakfast for that much….
yoga retreat in india? now that sounds good…. namaste!!!
