Eye Surgery Again????

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good morning. wow, the waves on the north shore dropped so fast. it’s so small out there today. good think i went out yesterday. there’s some little waves in town. there’s a small north/west swell expected on march 31st. good timing for the womens pipeline contest. anyway, going to start packing and jump in the water somewhere. have a nice day….

my eye has been bothering me again so i went to have everything checked out. this time, i went to queen’s hospital where they have all the high tech machines and stuff. it was so weird looking at my eye close up…. here’s the deal. my pteriguim seems to be growng back. i’m taking medicine to try to stop it. if it stops, great. if it doesn’t, not great. surgery again? yeah, the doctor told me that i might have to cut it off again. that would suck…. now what am i going to do for another month out of the water????

that’s when i picked up the traveler magazine. 20 dream escapes? sounds good as long as there isn’t any ocean nearby. safari tour in south africa? and get eaten by a lion? deep forest in the philippines? and get kidnapped? or travel india? eat curry, do yoga, and find my inner soul… now that sounds good….

this was my facial expression when my doctor told me to stay out of the sun. it’s like telling a fish to stay out of the ocean. impossible…. what ever happens, all i can do is think positive and be glad i have an eye to start off with. and another thing i can look forward to is my 1 month vacation because there’s no way i’m staying in hawaii if i can’t go in the ocean. that would cause too much suffering. ahhhhh… i don’t even want to think about it… so i won’t…..

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide