remember Sano-san? yeah, the young surfer with 1 year surfing experience i took to the north shore. my sister was on the beach capturing all the action. as we were paddling out, i remember him being super nervous. i told him “breathe! deep breaths!”
a wave was coming so i yelled “paddle!!!! paddle!!!” he caught his first north shore wave and has the photo to prove it to his friends. wanted to thank my maui bodyboard friend Leroy for letting Sano-san go on this wave. pure stoke!
on the way out, i asked Sano-san if he ever got barreled before. he told me, “i don’t know.” haha. well Sano-san, this could be your first ever barrel. one year of surfing and getting barreled on the north shore? awesome dude!
after we got out of the water, i asked Sano-san, “hey, let’s go back out and get more.” he looked at me and said “no thank you, my arms are like rubber.” i think he was just happy to survive. haha. as we got back in my car for the ride back to town, he slept the whole way home. must have been really tired. it’s moments like these that make me love my job. i love to push people to their potential. tony moniz taught me that. and the funny thing is tammy moniz took these photos. if it wasn’t for tony and tammy, i wouldn’t be where i am today. and neither would Sano-san be surfing on the north shore during winter season. so i guess we both better thank them. haha.
