good evening. gosh, i surfed over 5 hours today. gas chambers in the morning and rocky point in the evening. surfed out. the waves were chest high but perfect conditions. and it wasn’t even crowded. got a lot of waves. back home and ready to sleep. it’s only 6:30pm but i’m done. good night…. oh, christmas island buoy is 7′ 17seconds. big south swell on the way. it’s half way here. figure, tahiti was huge on nov. 1st, christmas island which is in the middle of hawaii and tahiti picked it up today, which is nov. 3rd. so what do you think? yes, nov. 5th on south shores of hawaii. save gas, surf town….
on our last bali trip. one of the girls in our group got cut by her fin surfing uluwatu’s. that was amy. it was only the second day into the trip but she never once complained about it. i know other girls who would would cry and take the next flight back home. and i know guys like that too. but amy taped it up, stuck it out, and enjoyed the rest of the trip. well, maybe not all of it. imagine sitting down next to a guy who acts like a samurai preaching what he learned from the book “men are from mars, women are from venus”…. yeah, that was me… haha… how was your day amy? i got that from chapter 2. and for those of you who didn’t read that book, please do. we men have a hard time understanding women and that book helps a lot. i know it’s impossible to understand womens selfishness and stuff but it’s a start. haha…. just joking….
amy was also nice enough to send me the photo i forgot to take. a perfect sunset in wakayama from the roof at yamari shirasu factory. gosh, it was beautiful….
and this one too. i was thinking about the great time and memories i had these past 3 months. and many more to come….
by the way, this is the helicopter chasing the 15′ tiger shark away from chun’s last week. crazy yeah…..
