Lonely Macaroni's: Day 3

204

salamat pagi. we pulled in to macaroni’s yesterday afternoon. the waves were fun and there were 2 other boats here. woke up this morning and one boat left. there were 5 guys out and all of them were from our boat. yup, a full morning session with only japanese surfers out. and being that macaroni’s is one of the best waves in the world, and one of the most packed, i guess you can say, we’re lucky. everybody got good waves and this session will go down in the history books. yup, only a few japanese surfers in the water at macaroni’s. that’s unheard of….
it’s 10am and our plan today it to check out this great blue water diving spot in the middle of the ocean. there are so many fish around and after everybody watched the video footage last night, everybody wants to go back and see nature at it’s best…..
check out some of the photos i took yesterday…

this is lances left. like i said, we pulled up, looked at it, and drove away. i guess you can say we’re getting spoiled. this is what you call a perfect wave…

tokura-san at bintangs. if it wasn’t for this man, none of us would be on this boat. almost every single person i’ve met since 1992 has a link to tokura-san. like i said over and over, “i’m living the dream life i live and it’s all because of this man, tokura-san”…..

day 1 sashimi. day 2 sashimi. and tonight will be sashimi too. haru-san prepared poke and nitsuke style fish for our dinner. it’s like having a japanese 5 star restaurant in the middle of the indian ocean. you won’t find anything like it in the world. and being with such good people just makes it even better. these aren’t fake smiles, these are all real smiles that’s been on our face since we boarded this boat. this is the life!!! and this was our big boat party last night…

hayato, genki-san, and i jumped in the middle of the ocean yesterday looking for big fish. i took a fish i speared the day before and started chopping it up in the water. there were so many fish around but i was waiting for something good to come along. i took a drop with the falling chum around me and there i seen him. a big ono, or sawara in japanese. he was coming in but started to turn away. i swam deeper after him to get a good shot. he started swimming farther away and i was down pretty deep and long already so i just shot him in the ass. it wasn’t a great shot so he was pulling me around like a rag doll. i yelled for hayato to get a back up shot. he hit the fish but somehow his shaft came out. next thing you know, i see genki-san swim down and grab it by the tail and wrestled it up. i put my knife in the fishes head and it was over. it took 3 guys to bring up this fish and it was all about team work. can’t wait to do it all over again… maybe today?? we’ll just have to wait and see… hope all of you are enjoying your life as much as we are… teremakasih…. and thanks matsuo for taking this photo….

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide