Mental Why? I mean Mentawai: Day 2

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after yesterdays full action packed day, we were super burnt out. woke up and headed to lances lefts. the waves were overhead and barreling but we just ended up watching it. spoiled after day 1? yup…. we crossed the channel and surfed bintangs all by our lonesome selves. fun waves for everybody. oh get this, i was getting my diving things ready for a dive. i stuck my hands in a bucket to grab my gloves and stuff. it was all mixed up so i was digging deep, then i heard tokura-san yelling!!!! snake!!!! shit, there was a poisonous sea snake crawling out of the bucket. OH MY GOSH!!! if that thing bit my hand, i would be dead in less than 3 minutes. and i ain’t kidding…. the sea snakes here are the most deadliest snakes in the world. instead of wrapping you up and squeezing you until your dead, these just bite you and sink their poisonous venom in you. then set your stopwatch and you’ll be lucky to live past 3 minutes. i was laughing at the time but didn’t realize how close i was to actually getting bitten. and dying… good thing i took out travel insurance. somebody would have scored a $500,000….. oh well, life rolls on….
by the way, did you get my DAY 1 journal from yesterday? i sent it via satellite aboard the sansouci2. if you didn’t, i’ll try to resend it again later… right now, i’m at macaroni’s borrowing their internet. gotta get back to the boat because it’s only day 2 and i’m burnt from having too much fun…..
mentawai is good. life is good. enjoy life because you never know when it will end. mine almost ended this morning. now i’m even going to enjoy things a lot more because i’m living in my bonus life….
check out these photos from yesterday kenjj sahara took…

this is koutsusa at HT’s. 6′? i don’t know, what do you think? how ever big it is, this is the best size for this spot. photos don’t lie so this is how freakin good it was….

i love to get barreled and i’m not ashamed to pull into anything. big or small, it still feels the same. well, this time felt a little better because i’m on vacation…. i’m loving every minute to the fullest….

after 3 surfing sessions yesterday, i had to make a hard choice. it was 3pm and the waves were getting good again. either i go surf again and get more barrels, or go diving by myself. yeah, hayato got hurt so he couldn’t dive with me. i really don’t like to go diving by myself because it’s really dangerous. especially when it’s getting dark and i’m swimming in the ocean alone in the middle of nowhere. but once everybody told me they wanted to eat sashimi, i had too. i got dropped off a mile away with the dingy and the pressure was on. i didn’t want to go back empty handed so i was swimming around and around looking for the fish. i couldn’t find any for the first 30 minutes. it was getting late, then i came across this rock at about 35-40′ deep loaded with fish. i went down to the bottom and laid there looking at all these fish around me. bang, one by one. 30 minutes later, i couldn’t fit any more fish on my weight belt. i was pretty dam happy… that was yesterday, today is today. i went blue water deep diving and bang!!! story coming tomorrow…. all i can say is that we have 19 people on this boat and there is enough sashimi for everyone for days… and i’m not even done yet…. the dream trip continues…..

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide