hello hello or should i say salamat pagi!! we pulled out of padang last night and headed to where? straight to the world class and one of the best right handers in the world. HT’s, Hollow trees, or Lances Rights. call it what ever you want but this wave is awesome. we got here at 6am and the waves were going off!! there was one other boat so it was uncrowded. then that boat left and it was just us. EVERYONE got good waves and everybody got barreled. i surfed 3 rounds and got one of my best barrels of the year. solid 4′ and perfect. i took a nap after lunch and looked out my window to see numajiri surfing with only one other guy out. surfing ht’s so uncrowded is pretty rare. evening came and it was either surf, or dive. my dive partner hayato got hurt from hitting the reef so he couldn’t dive with me. diving alone is really dangerous but not having sashimi on the boat is dangerous too. so i dove alone for an hour and a half. it was slow until i found this rock in 35′ deep water surrounded by fish. i filled up my stringer, called the dingy, and came back. that was 6pm and now it’s 9pm. after 3 bintang beers, dinner, sashimi, 5 jack and cokes, and lots of fun, i’m sitting here in the captains room typing this email. after 19 years of traveling, i have to say that this is my best first day of any trip i’ve been on. i could go home tomorrow and be satisfied. but that’s not going to happen. i’m here for 10 more days and if everyday is like how today was, slap my face and wake me up. i’m buzzing from surfing, i’m buzzing from diving, and i’m buzzing from drinking. this is the dream life. the life i want to live forever. anyway, i’m signing off from the middle of the indian ocean via satellite email aboard the sanscousi2. i’ll see ya all back tomorrow. but for now, we got more fishing and drinking to do before the lights go out. last, dreams come true!! believe me!!! teremakasih……
by the way, because it costs so much to send out an email from this boat. i think hayato wants to say something too….. kirby
ohhhhhh my goshhhhhhhhh!!!
unreal trip.
got to get back to my bintang,,,,
lates
hayato
