yesterday was a surf, surf, surf day. Ito-san and i went to the north shore in the morning. checked everywhere and ended up scoring velzyland. yeah, 3-5′, barreling, and only 3 guys out. the current was strong as a river and only the strong could survive. paddled hard for 2.5 hours but the big barrels were worth it. there was a monk seal on the beach as we paddled out, and there was another one in the lineup. it was hanging out and riding waves. pretty dam cool! then we came back for a bowls afternoon session and guess what? score! the waves came up and we caught so many long rights and lefts. ended up surfing about 5 hours yesterday and when we were paddling in, our arms couldn’t take anymore. i was beat, tired, and happy!
Ito-san,
I had a great time surfing with you.
We got good waves on the North and South!
Lucky surfing day!
Keep on ripping and hope you enjoy the rest of your stay in Hawaii.
Aloha!
i was calling mike pricket yesterday and getting sent to a french message recording. then maki-san sent me an email and photo of mike recovering from decompression sickness. when i saw this photo, it made me so happy to see my friend giving us the shaka! i know he will pull through this accident fine. hey mike, your my hero! get well soon!
i’ve always kept my blog pretty clean because i knew there were a lot of kids reading it. sometimes i get sidetracked and put stupid things in here, but not after some private school kids are reading it. i’m going to keep it clean!
and last, i’m looking forward to going back to japan. 12 more days! save me some sushi!
