Perfect Lance's Right Birthday Present: Day 6

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hello hello from lance’s rights. today was one of the most greatest days of my life. i can’t explain it in a blog, i need more like a book. too keep it short, it all started off waking up at macaroni’s with nobody else around. 4′ and barreling!!! only japanese at macaroni’s? yup, another day of just us scoring perfect barrels…. then we hit the outer reef to catch some sashimi for tokura-san’s birthday. job done. we not only caught 1 big fish, we caught 2. then we pulled into lances right’s at 2pm and the waves were going off!!! 4-6′ and the best it ever gets. then it was the birthday celebration for tokura-san. 7 bottles of champagne, 1 big bottle of jacksan, and a lot of bintangs. my head still hurts….

tokura-san turned 60 and it’s a japanese tradition to wear a red vest. the boys at dove took care of that. a custom wetsuit for a custom guy… happy birthday tokura-san….

we thought we scored macaroni’s in the morning. then when we pulled up to lance’s right, nobody could believe how good it was. everybody was getting barreled. but the highlight of the session was watching a 60 year old hard core travel surfer get a perfect barrel and make it. that surfer was tokura-san…..

if you freedive deep. you will see things that normal people will never see. this was a dream dive session for me. first a huge GT, then a sawara. i used my 100cm stock picasso reef gun with no tag line. so when i speared these fish 60′ under, i had to hold on for my life. good thing hayato came and gave the kill shots. if he wasn’t there, i would still be fighting this fish underwater. and if you seen the sashimi platter we had for our evening bintang session, you would freak…

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide