Dream Barrels: Day 7

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salamat pagi. after a long party last night, this is what we woke up too… dream barrels…. and a lot of hangovers… lance’s rights DOESN’T get better than this..

i jumped in to try to get some water shots mid morning. it was such a beautiful day. sunny skies, clean barrels, and clear water. what more could you ask for? this is zuccho getting ready for a crystal clear barrel….

i cut my foot, scratched my back, broke my board, hayato cut his hand and broke his board, genki-san cut his arm that needed a stitch, and also cut his leg, furuya-san cut his arm, zuccho cut his hand, kohtsuya hurt his back, and here is numajiri with scars on his back for life. think our job is easy? think again….

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide