i took Inaida-san and Yuki-san surfing for their first time exactly one year ago. they started off with 11′ huge surfboards, booties, and i remember having to tow them out and in from bowls because the paddle was so far. then after 15 minutes in the water, they were tired and exhausted. yeah, surfing might look easy, but it’s actually an active sport that takes up a lot of energy. anyway, that was a year ago. now? now, we surf for 2 hours, they paddle by themselves, they ride high performance longboards, and instead of looking tired after each wave, Inaida-san and Yuki-san are really energetic. know what that means? it means that they are stronger, healthier, and a lot more energetic than a year ago.
Yuki-san is a very strong paddler. if she paddles for a wave, she usually catches it. she sometimes even paddles faster than the wave itself. and once Yuki-san stands up, she’s turning, she’s smiling, and she’s having fun! if you want to see how to enjoy surfing so much, watch Yuki-san surf.
yesterday was the first time i seen Inaida-san take off, turn on the curl of a big wave, and race the whole wave down going left. he was surfing fast, smooth, and controlled. he even took a step walking the board. if you seen him surfing, you wouldn’t believe Inaida-san’s been only surfing for one year. our goal for surfing is to be able to surf mentawai together and 2013 is looking promising. i can’t wait till the day he gets barreled. when that day comes, the Dom Perignon is going to taste sweeter than ever!
Yuki-san loves to wipe out. every time she falls, she says it’s so much fun! Yuki-san is a tough surfer girl! Yuki-san “HATIHATI!!!!”
**it’s been a cool year of surfing and traveling. when i see my friends surfing getting better, i feel like mine is too. and that feeling is unexplainable. i’m having so much fun surfing everyday and i’m so fortunate to have such a beautiful ocean in my backyard. surfing has changed my life for the better and i hope it does for your life too! Surf Your Dream!
