Training Starts!

214

wow, what a great feeling to be back in hawaii. after i arrived, i came home to grab my surfboard and went straight to the beach. the waves were shoulder high and PERFECT! being out of the water for 2 weeks took a toll on my body. when i put on my trunks, i already new i gained too much weight. haha. eating all that awesome food put another layer on my waist. so after i surfed, i swam full sprint from bowls all the way back to the beach. it felt good! and now that i’m back home, i’ll return to my normal life of surfing everyday. and instead of doing 200 pushups a day, i’ll do 300 till i get back in shape. there is still a south swell, and the north shore has waves too so a lot of time in the sun and warm water.
i want to thank everybody again who i already know, and to everybody i met along the way on my last trip to japan. time flew by so fast that i have to go back into my blogs to see what i did. but the everlasting memories of the cherry blossoms, friends, food, and tohoku is making me a really happy person.
i have a little over a month before i go back to japan again, then to mentawai for a dream boat trip. time will come fast so i better enjoy each and every day from today. tonight it will be a simple healthy dinner, some computer work, and a good sleep. i’ll probably wake up at 3am but so what. i can lay in bed thinking of the things i’ve done, and things i have to do.
have a wonderful day!

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide