i surfed with such an energetic girl. Ayaka-chan’s only been surfing for a year but i was surprised how good she was. i helped put her longboard in the water, then by the time i put on my wetsuit top and watch, she was already out in the lineup at bowls. super fast paddler means super plenty of waves. had a great time surfing!
then yesterday, i surfed 6 hours with Yosuke-san and Chiaki-san. the newlyweds on their honeymoon surfing for the first time in hawaii. my goal was to get then on their longest rides of their life. mission accomplished. i’m so happy to be able to surf so much. after working all day sunday in kobochihama, then getting a flight back to hawaii on monday, then surfing on monday, then surfing with Ayaka-chan on tuesday, then with Yosuke-san and Chiaki-san on wednesday. i think i already made up for the 2 weeks i was out of the ocean. it’s been a really productive week and i’m super satisfied with my work, my friends, and my life.
gosh, i wish i was there in panama cheering on all the hawaiian and japanese boys!!!!
i was watching my nephew Seth Moniz live yesterday on the web. i was so stoked to see him representing hawaii! this kid rips!
when this kid was 7 years old and just started surfing, i knew he was going to be a champion. he already has a few champion belts and this one would mean the most. but i can’t wish he wins the champion because i have my other nephew joshua in the same division competing with him. i just wish one of them win the world title and bring it back to hawaii!
