good morning. 6;30am and the waves are looking good all around the island. north swell, and south swell. laniakea looks fun in the 3′ range with 50 guys out. town has chest high or maybe even bigger sets at diamond head. nice winds making perfect conditions. it’s time to surf!!! see you in the water….
i had lunch with eri-chan and maki-san the other day. the best local style plate lunches on the island. it’s so good that i can’t tell you where… haha…
when i go diving, i’m always looking around. and when i see something cool, i stick it in my pocket. this is what you call “cool”….
i’ve been back for almost a month now and haven’t had 30 minutes to go get a haircut. been too busy. it’s the longest it’s been in years. and at the rate everything is happening, i don’t think i will have time until november. i might have to cut it myself….
ever since i met the kimura-san family (owners of yamari) in wakayama about 10 years ago, they have treated me like a family member. they are such a special family with a special company. yamari shirasu in wakayama produces the best shirasu in japan. and everybody that tried it agrees. tony, seth, and i stayed there a few nights on our last visit to japan. like always, we were treated like family. to me, that’s special… the kimura-san family support for surfers is just amazing. there’s plenty of aloha at yamari shirasu….
i just found out that yamari just renewed their website. it look really professional and naohiro is doing a blog on there. that’s one site i will bookmark for sure…. and if you haven’t tried their shirasu, you don’t know what your missing….
**CLICK HERE FOR YAMARI SHIRASU WEBSITE….
