pulled up to backdoor/off the wall at 6:45am. only a couple guys out and looked pretty fun. but had a funny feeling i should check v-land. pulled up to v-land 5 minutes later and oh my gosh!!! E-P-I-C!!! v-land was 4′ and perfect!!! long barreling rights…. i was running on the beach and paddled out as fast as i could. just like a kid. i’d say v-land was a 10 on a scale of 1-10. surfed and got barreled for 2 and a half hours with not too many guys out. score!!!
then drove down to sunset to watch the contest. it was 3′ and windy off the point. it was kind of booring after surfing epic waves all morning so i was out of there….
dropped by glenn minami’s shaping room to pick up seth’s new boards. a 4’5 short board and a 4’4 bullet. gosh, those boards are so small. and gosh, those boards look so sick….
results for the x-cel pro:
1st- Joel Centeio
2nd- Mason Ho
congrats to the boys from hawaii….
i took my olympus camera out to surf the other day. todd mitsui and bobby higa were out so i snapped this photo. surfing perfect waves with only a few guys out brings a smile to anyone….
speaking of bobby higa. bobby is part owner of VERTRA SKINCARE…. he gave me a bunch of sunscreen for my precious face. haha…. i came home and was playing around with my icamera and wanted to know how i’d look if i was half shane dorian. not bad yeah?? haha… gosh, i’m so black you can’t even see me. i’d better put more vertra sunscreen on my face before i surf. thanks bobby..
check out nakajima-san’s gallery from chiba the other day on GO-NAMINORI.COM… got some nice photos. and gosh, the water looks cold….[:???:][:???:][:???:]
***attention bowls, kaisers, rockpiles surfers…. get your ass down to the bowls parking lot tomorrow morning at 10am to protest the privatized gated pay parking planned. if you don’t, expect to pay $5/hour to surf your own spot….
