good morning. 6:30am on this saturday morning. waves on the north shore came down. maybe 3′ and i bet v-land is going off again. conditions look a little morning sickness but should be cleaning up. town has a little swell. chest high with 7 guys at rockpiles and 10 at bowls. happening today at queen’s is the rabbit kekai grom contest. should be some little rippers. water still dirty so cannot dive. shucks… anyway, have a nice day….
i’m pretty happy with my new olympus 790 SW water/shockproof camera. it sucks for surfing photos but awesome for portraits…. this is joshua the other day at gas chambers on the north shore. i’m still tripping out that i’m actually surfing the north shore with my nephews. can’t wait till they move down to pipe and backdoor….
this is grom fever. josh, kalani david, and friend…. all around 10 years old…
i’m surprised josh still surfs. when he was 9 years old, we were surfing out near his house and his leash wrapped around the reef and got stuck. it got stuck while he was underwater and was pulling him down. he freaked out but was smart enough to take his leash off. he was a little shaken up but recovered. a normal 9 year old would hang his surfboard up and never go in the ocean ever again….
seth’s another hard core grom. i asked him what happened to his foot that day. he told me that he stepped on glass and had a deep cut in his foot. i asked him if he went to the hospital. he said “nah, i just super glued it. it hurts a little but it’s ok”…. what???
anyways, heading to the UH Football game tonight at the aloha stadium. can’t wait.. GO WARRIORS….
and last, this is the yangtze river dolphin. they live in the yangtze river in china and haven’t been seen in years. scientist listed as possibly extinct. that sucks…
