when i woke up today, i already knew where i was going to surf. bowls? no. ala moana? no. diamond head? no. i was going straight to queen’s because i knew it was going to be fabulous! i parked my car, grabbed my board, ran across the street, paddled out, and before i made it to the lineup, a japanese tourist ran me straight over my head. i almost got killed. “Welcome to Waikiki!” Love it, or leave it! haha. but yes, the waves were so good! i had one of the best sessions of this summer swell today. tomorrow? i don’t know.
remember Mango Surf Wear? it was one of the most popular and coolest clothing companies from california. Mango sponsored me for about 6 years and i loved the clothes. i wish the were still around.
my friend asked me the other day how the waves are in japan. i told him, big and dangerous. he laughed at me and thought i was joking. take a look at this photo. this is big and dangerous. this is japan! i still remember this day and i’m glad nobody died. it was in the middle of a huge super typhoon and we took a little boat out into the ocean where we were not supposed to be. we use to do this for the fun! we use to do this for the adventure! we use to do this for the excitement! and we will still do this. typhoon season is right around the corner and i’m ready for anything. by the way, this wave is about 10′ hawaiian scale or 25′ faces. there were actually some bigger ones that day but i couldn’t get it because my board was too small. boy would i like another chance at this wave. you see the giant mountain coming in, you wait until it’s almost breaking, you turn around, you paddle your hardest, you take the drop, you look forward, you bend your knees, and you pray that you won’t die. that’s how it was that day! love it, or leave it!
