good morning. 6:15am aloha friday. the waves came down in town. maybe waist or chest high if your lucky at bowls. the tradewinds are blowing so it’s not that clean. 15 guys on it already with one stand up paddle boarder. that’s probably jeannie chesser. north shore is small but see a guy out at lani’s. we finally got our trade winds back so the air is as clean as can be. i have many of things to do, which includes packing. i haven’t even started yet. i have 2 short boards in indo already and am wondering if i should take another one. umm…. i left my brand new kaysen twin fin in japan and would have loved to take that…. i’ll be thinking about that all day and when tomorrow comes, i’ll probably end up taking another board. gosh, the big decisions i have to make in life… haha… anyway, hope you have a nice day!!!
i drove by queen’s yesterday and the waves looked super fun for longboarding. it was such a picture perfect day with blue skies….
meet Doctor Sato-san from shikoku, and Doctor Inatomi-san from okinawa. two doctors that surf!!!! straight from the airport to concessions, then to 1st holes, then to big rights, then to diamond head lighthouse. hard core surfers!!! thanks guys for the great time….
i asked sato-san which he liked better. surfing ala moana park with 50 surfers, or surfing diamond head light house with 3 surfers. guess what his answer was? of course the second one…
and sato-san, thank you soooo much for the udon from shikoku. i love it…. itadakimasu…
**and last, look at the headlines from yesterday.
25 dead in Bali after consuming methanol-tainted booze
at least 25 people in bali, including tourists have died after somebody put poison in locally made ARAK. oh my gosh@@@ that’s crazy!!! i’m going to indonesia tomorrow and now i know not to drink arak. i drank that a lot of times so it really makes me think….. i’m sticking to bintangs and jacksan….
