whenever it’s somebody’s first time to hawaii, i’m super stoked to take them surfing. from taking off their shirt in the hot sun, jumping into the cool water, to catching their first wave. their smile says a thousand words.
japan has been really cold. most places you need a full suit, boots, and gloves. but hawaii, all you need is a pair of surf trunks and you’re ready to go. just looking at the ocean makes me want to jump in!
you paddle out to the most famous surf spot on the south shore of oahu, you catch a lot of long waves, and you’re a pretty happy surfer. thank you again to the young Funaki-can couple.
i’ve been meeting the coolest japanese surfers in the water. it’s funny how the surfing world is so small. everybody is connected to everybody in some way. and it’s especially good to see We Are One surf supporters.
junior seau was my hero. i watched him play football for half my life. the greatest defense linebacker in football. i was shocked to wake up this morning and hear the news about him committing suicide. suicide sucks!
