hello from somewhere in indonesia….

361

i don’t know exactly where we are but we are on an island right outside of banda aceh. the place that got demolished 4 years when the earth quake and tsunami hit. kind of scary when i think about it. we’re on this island where not too many people visited before. it’s total jungle with nobody living on this huge island. i heard there are gorilla’s, monkey’s, tigers, snakes, and all kinds of wildlife here. it’s pretty cool listening to pure nature all day long. and to think, i’m going to be in concrete jungle in japan in a few days…. i’m going to soak it up here and have fun….

we have an awesome crew. my 3 sponsors along with snowboarders from hokkaido. cool people….
we were at nias on the first day and i went diving by myself to look for sashimi. the water was dirty and the only thing i seen was a big shark swimming above me. that sucked….

then we pulled up to this island where i know nobody dives. i can tell just by the way the fish act. they looked so surprised to see me. haha… anyway, there i was alone again in undiscovered waters with tim hanging nearby driving the dingy. i take my small gun and make my first drop. i didn’t see anything but i seen a crack about 45′ down and thought there might be lobsters. i go down, look in the crack, nothing, so i look around and see this huge shadow coming over my shoulder. oh no, not a shark again??? i took a good look and this huge GT went over my head. i stayed calm, which was freakin hard to do, and let him pass by me. i looked him right in the eye and watched him swim away. then i did what i always do, “here fishy, here fish” making noise with my gloves and he went out 10 meters and turned around. he was coming for me and i was loosing my breath but i knew if i went up, he would run away. 10 seconds later he came into range and aimed for his brain. BANG!!! right in the brain. my spear didn’t go through and the fish was still trying to fight so i went up. yelled for tim to throw my other gun. i asked tim to hold the gun the fish was on and as it was towing the boat around, i went down and gave the kill shot in the head. everything took not even 10 minutes and we came back to the boat with fish for the whole trip. gosh, i never thought anything could top my last dream trip but after day 2, i already got a fish bigger then the last one. what a freakin life!!! tim called this one 40-50 kilos. i don’t know but it was freaking huge and freakin heavy.

well, gotta get going. the sun is setting so it’s sashimi and bintang time. the boys are waiting. be back soon….

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide