good morning. miyazaki is a beautiful place. when i was about to land at the airport, i was looking out the window and remembering all my good times here. the food is so good, the people are so nice, and the surf is good. i was stoked to see nakano-san, toshi-san, maoh, and u-ske at the airport to pick me up. this is my first surf trip journal surf trip and i’m loving it. everybody just goes with the flow. and that’s exactly what i like to do. surf, eat, and have fun. the waves aren’t important, it’s about having a fun trip and making the best out of every condition. that’s cool. anyway, better get ready to go. have a nice day and be back later…
i was so stoked to arrive at satoshi kubota’s surf shop “on the beach” yesterday and see my boards waiting for me. my new single fin and 4 plus 1 fin. thanks yasan for sending it to me….
fried fish, sashimi, grilled fish, miso soup, and rice set for lunch. all this only cost 1000 yen or $10. if we had this in hawaii, i would be there everyday… and night…
every prefecture in japan has it’s own culture. here is the prefecture of onion balls?
and last, talk about lost at sea. i jumped in the water yesterday to surf this beach break. the waves were shoulder high and onshore. and no power. i paddled out to the outside to wait for a 6′ indonesia set to come my way. it didn’t. i was lost out there. i couldn’t surf, didn’t know what waves to catch, and felt like a beginner. it’s been so long since i surfed a wave like that. i’m what you called a “spoiled surfer”. i’m going to practice more on these waves so i don’t feel like a kook. haha…. but you know what? i give these japanese surfers a lot of respect. they know how to surf these waves good and rip in it. today, ganbarimasu!!!!
