good evening. pulled up to lani’s this morning and the waves were going off. only 5 guys out and so many rights were peeling across unridden. score!!! it was my first surf at lani’s this year and i forgot how fun that wave is. but honeslty, the water was dirty so i was also thinking about that 15′ tiger shark that hangs out there. and for the first time, i didn’t see the turtles there which made it more scary. did they know something i didn’t???? anyway, went to check out the contest and watched a couple of heats. gosh, the level of surfing is so high now. the judging system is awesome. they score on turns and not on length of ride. what a change. when i surfed contests, they judged on the guy doing head snaps all the way to the beach. and the guys doing big turns on the outside lost. i saw a guy today do 5 weak turns to the beach and got scored a 3.5 out of 10. then i seen sunny garcia do a huge turn on the outside and get a 7.3. that’s how surfing should be. it’s good to see surfers win contests more on ability, and not so much on stragegy. can’t wait to watch the top seeds surf. as for tomorrow, i’m sleeping in because i know it’s going to be morning sickness in the morning. so far, it’s the worst winter in the history of the north shore… but probably the best spring 2008 ever? i think and hope so….
imagine coming to hawaii for the first time. then imagine going for your first surf in hawaii on the north shore. coming down the hill, there must be so much things going on in your mind. i still get butterflies in my stomach when i see the surf coming down the hill. i wonder what jun, masaki, and chin must have felt like???
another awesome lunch at my favorite plate lunch place…..
we took a safari trip in south africa back in 2000 during our surfing life surf trip. it was just like the discovery channel. we were looking for elephants and when we seen them, i got out of the car to take a photo. they were huge!!! then i saw a baby elephant next to his mother and i tried to go closer to get a photo. the mother turned to me, looked me in the eye, and started coming towards the car. i freakin freaked out. some of the guys in the car were pissed at me because if that elephant wanted to destroy our car with all of us in there, she could have. i felt stupid. don’t mess with elephants…
this is not a photo from a korean drama. this is a photo i found in “pictures of the week” of a guy in xi’an,china who took a girl hostage. this is real. this worker took his employers girlfriend as a hostage and demanded $400 from his boss. only $400? i would be bummed out if somebody kidnapped me and only wanted $400 to let me go… that’s too cheap man….
here’s another picture of the week. gosh, i wouldn’t mind doing that. except i’m afraid of heights… haha…
**CLICK HERE FOR HIGHLIGHTS OF DAY 2 AT THE HALEIWA PRO…..
