Bali McDelivery 24 hours…..

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good morning. 6:45am wednesday morning. yup, morning sickness around the island. north shore is 3-5′ and bumpy everywhere. 2 surfers out at rocky’s and nobody at pipe so it must be shitty. town got some smal ankle snappers and hardly nobody out. small south swell on the way, small north/west swells on the way. nothing special. better work and take off when the real swells hit the north shores. they are running a few mens heats and are finishing up the womens contest at haleiwa today. go check it out…. blue crush… aloha…

the mcdonald’s in indonesia has a little different menu. one thing they have that we don’t have is fried chicken. it’s super good too….

they have a seperate desert section. 20 cents for an ice cream cone. 50 cents for a McFlurry. cheap for hawaii, but expensive for indonesia…

big mac meal= $3

so for all you paranoid travelers that don’t want to eat out, or don’t want to go out, for reasons like terrorist or food poisoning. call 140045 24 hours a day and somebody on their bike will deliver your happy meal for you…. and to all you travelers that want an adventure, eat where the locals eat. do what the locals do, and stay away from where all the tourist go. that’s how to travel….

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide