i was doing a modeling photo shoot a few months ago in hawaii. i know
this place with trees, green, mountain back, ocean front, and a lot of
places to take great modeling photos. there is also a wave right in
front that not too many people know about. this was a sunday and there
was nobody out. kind of secret, kind of good, and kind of not telling
you where. i surf there when i want to get away from the crowds and
it’s hard to believe nobody goes there. i’ll be surfing there this
summer more often.
heard japan has waves today. shucks. i already packed my boards, i
didn’t bring a full suit, and the ocean is far away from where i am. it
takes a lot of effort for surfers from tokyo to go to the beach. for
me, i’m spoiled.
going on flight 2 of 6 tomorrow. flying to bali and hopefully get in a
few surf sessions to warm up for mentawai. salamat pagi!
