V-8 VW Beetle….

274

good morning. 6:30am on this cloudy monday morning. big north/east swell. bumpy conditions on the north shore. bad weather on the way. heard japan was freezing cold yesterday so expect a huge swell heading to hawaii by next week. town is back to normal, flat. going to work on my boat today and hopefully get it ready for surf/dive trips. once again, i feel so fresh from diving yesterday. but not so fresh after inhaling fiberglass and resin today. yuck… anyway, have a nice day…

this nuts ass v-8 vw bug lives right near my house. i can hear it coming down my street every time he drives it. i want it….

got some really wide tires in the back. the guy says when he steps on the gas a little, the tires spin out… that’s power. i want it…

it’s the only one on this island. i want it….

and last. ikai’ka in japan. can’t wait to see them live next year. maybe i’ll practice hula dancing and i can dance a song for them… that would be cool… o mau kau kau….

gosh, get this. i got a small cut on my foot last week. the dam thing won’t heal. i think the dirty water infected it and it hurts pretty bad. it was doing fin until yesterday but my fins kept on rubbing on it yesterday and made it worst. i couldn’t feel anything when i was diving but when i got home, itai… might have to head to the hospital today…

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide