Clear and Present Danger…

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good evening. i woke up and my leg was hurting so i went to get it checked out. my doctor told me that some keflex pulvule should make the infection go away so i’m taking 4 a day. don’t know what that is but “what ever works”…. supposed to stay out of the water but i jumped in my friends pool this evening to tune up my guns. i think the chemicals in the pool cleaned my cuts out. i’m still wondering how it got infected? was it the ocean? or was it nuuanu stream? umm… anyway, i have confidence in my doctor so it should be better in a few days…. that’s what he said…

i was running around this morning looking for the broken seals i needed for my. finally found it and with my brothers help, got the motor back together. i also fixed the hole in the hull with some surfboard resin and fiberglass. looking good. just have to sand and paint and i’m ready to rock again. also changed oil in my car. felt like being a mechanic today. got to wash my hands and clothes….

with this rain we’ve been having, there’s rainbows everywhere you look. right after i took this picture, the sky turned black and started to storm. it’s still storming right now. hope no sewage spills tonight….

check out my dinner last night. i went down to kim chee II to get this restaurant special plate. i almost ate all of this including 2 bowls of rice. i’m still full and still smell like kim chee…

i took this photo last summer out at big rights. this guy was taking off so i wanted to get him going left. then he turned right and tried to pull in from behind the barrel. i still don’t know why he went right. for the photo? hope not because i don’t know who he is and he will probably never ever see this photo. but i thought it looks cool….

picture of the week. according to a united nations report published in october, 2007, 3 million people die annually in developing countries from water-borne diseases. this girl was drinking out of a pipe in uganda right after that report was published. gosh, that’s sad….

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide