Filipino Lotto Winners….

279

good morning. 6:30am on this chilly north wind morning. gosh, feeling more like winter now. i actually used a blanket last night. it’s chilly but i like it. but it’s just a little harder to get up. still got a solid north swell out in the country. the conditions look much better than yesterday. town is flat and the water out at bowls looks dirty again from all that rain last night. so far, no sewage spills but i’m keeping an eye on the news. anyway, the waves suck today so i’m going to finish up fixing my boat. then i might have to in the water to test it out. with my speargun. haha. oh, i was driving by kahala mall yesterday and they were unloading christmas trees. gosh, don’t you love that smell? can’t wait to get mine… in hawaii, christmas is the happiest time of the year. only 35 days away… ho ho ho, merry christmas…..

on our stop over in cebu, hayato, kazuya, and u-ske tried their luck at the lottery there. seemed like everybody was doing it….

hayato was a winner!!! i think he won a dollar or something. but a dollar in the philippines is like 20 bucks to us. it can go a long way… imagine winning a million dollar lottery in hawaii or japan? wait. forget it. i don’t want anything to do with millions of dollars. i seen how money can change people. i was watching a special the other day about the lifestyle of past lottery winners. it was all about drugs, fake friends, and even suicide. a normal person getting millions of dollars all of a sudden will change their lives forever. whether they like it or not. money is evil… i like my life now…. but if you want to give me a million dollars, here is my account number: 867-5309…. just joking… have a nice day…
**haleiwa pro cancelled today. too small and junky. huge swell coming this weekend so expect the contest to finish with a bang!!! bang!!!

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide