good evening. what a great day for surfing. hide-san from fiji and i went surfing at bowls this morning. it was 2′ when we paddled out and the waves kept getting bigger and better. there were solid 4′ sets breaking and the rights and lefts were going off!!! had a great 3 hour session. then it was kewalo’s in the evening. i’m so sunburned and surfed out already. our endless summer is still going, going, and going… have a great evening…
this was diamond head cliffs at 8am this morning. it was 3-4′ and pretty fun. nobody was out at lighthouse, and only 5 guys out at cliffs. wow@!!
i love teaching kids how to surf. especially when their so young. meet shoma from japan. he’s 5 years old and surfed for the first time. as we were out at bowls surfing together, i had a flashback of myself learning how to surf the exact same way at the same age. that started my surfing career. a career that has made my life so dam good. i hope shoma can do the same….
shoma and i were paddling back out after catching a wave. then a big head high set broke right in front of us. we both got pounded off the board and shoma and i were rolling underwater like we were in a washing machine. i had one hand on his jersey so he wasn’t going anywhere and my other hand trying to protect us from the shallow reef. i’d say we were underwater for a good 10 seconds or so. i came up, the i pulled shoma up. his face was in shock! i told him this blows away any ride at disneyland right? he laughed and we surfed more. that experience will probably be with shoma forever….
and last, we finally got our new go-naminori stickers made. i think they look pretty dam cool. if you see me in japan, ask me for stickers and i’ll give you some. if you don’t see me, here’s your chance. i’ll send out 2 stickers to the first 5 people that send me an email @ kirby@go-naminori.com
