good morning. 6:30 am tuesday morning. it seems like the swell didn’t pick up too much from yesterday. it actually looks a bit smaller. i see some head high sets at bowls with a little morning sickness conditions. 15 guys are out at kaisers, 12 at rockpiles, and 18 at bowls. the park is a little smaller and there are 30 guys out already. big swell forecasted for tomorrow. wow, i just seen a really nice wave at bowls. i got my new board so i’m going surfing!!! have a wonderful day!!
this was my lunch yesterday at cooke street diner. korean crispy chicken with hamburger curry. sooooo good!!!!!
i was talking to shun before he paddled out for round 2 yesterday. since he’s riding a board with a lot more rocker, i told him to take off, do a deep bottom turn, set up, and come off the top BIG!! then do it again and again and again….. so as i was standing on the jetty watching shun paddle for his first wave, he did exactly what i told him to do. plus more. his fins were out on every turn. gosh, that kid is surfing so much better now. bigger turns and bigger lines. just what he needed to take his surfing to the next level. i hope the all japan surfing championships are in good waves because if it is, i’d put all my money on shun….
i can’t believe i got my new board in 4 days. i put my stickers, waxed it up, and tried it out yesterday…
and it worked sooooo good. the board is so light that i needed weights to weight down the nose. or maybe i should just gain 20 more pounds? anyway, this board is going with me to japan…. can’t wait to ride it in okinawa, shikoku, shonan, chiba, and every where else i go…
