good evening. diamond head was so beautiful today. i went surfing with 54 year old funakoshi-san from osaka. funakoshi-san just started surfing a few years ago and told me his life has totally changed, in a good way. he feels a lot more healthy, and active. he rode a shortboard for the first time in his life and surfed really good. ask funakoshi-san if it’s ever too late to start surfing. i know what he’s going to say. “heck no”….
**start surfing and live a happier and healthier life….
the hawaiian vintage auction this past weekend sold $767,546 of surfboard and misc. collectables. that’s pretty crazy…
on a hot day, refreshing yogurt is the call. and that’s just what i did the other day. i went to munchies at ward warehouse…
mango tart, lychee tart, with mochi and gummy bears on the top. my favorite….
meet your worst nightmare. this is my friend derek. i’ve known this guy for 20 years from surfing. the coolest bruddah with a good heart. for the past 10 years, every time i see derek, he tells me about a photo he took of me surfing backdoor a long time ago. i heard it about 100x and when i seen him yesterday in the parking lot, i heard it again. except this time, he actually brought it with him…. by the way, derek is doing the shaka for the boys in hawaii, and the peace sign for the boys in japan…..
this is back in 1999. derek shot this from the beach while i was pulling into a perfect backdoor barrel. that’s bodyboard champ mike stewart going left at pipeline. i’m so stoked to see this photo after all the talk over the years. thanks bro…
**oh, the reason why i call derek “your worst nightmare” is because not too many surfers know that derek use to be a national boxing champion when he was young. sometimes i see clueless surfers mess with him and they end up getting knocked out. yeah, this guy is the real deal so watch out….
