Dirty Panties….

991

good morning. it’s 6 am and there’s no sign of the new swell yet. i heard it supposed to get 5′ + so we shall see. as for now, the waves are small. chest high and windy too. 20 guys out at bowls. it’s going to be another beautiful day and i’ll be surfing all day long. i’m going to surf somewhere totally different and looking forward to it. anyway, have a nice day!!!

check out some of the shells i brought back from north sumatra. pretty rare or what? i got a pretty cool collection at my house. all in ziplock bags….

our trip to the philippines 2 years ago was one to remember. the crew, the waves, and the food poisoning will never be forgotten….

check out the surftech hard rock cafe state championship tshirts they gave out to the competitors this year. yup, that’s seth moniz doing the backside snap i taught him how to do. haha… this shirt is a keeper…
**oh, please stop emailing me about the free stickers. i got 48 emails and i said 5 at first, but now i made it 10. thanks for all your emails and kind comments. if you see me in japan, i’ll give you stickers. we didn’t make too many so they will probably run out fast. anyway, if you were one of the lucky 10, please send me your address and i’ll have it in the mail next week. mahalo….
1. matt from hawaii.
2. daisuki-san from miyazaki.
3. ricardo from brazil.
4. takeshi-san from aomori.
5. george from southern california.
6. nakajima-san from ???
7. russell from maui.
8. genjimilo from chicago.
9. yoshimoto-san from nara.
10. junior from kamakura.


and last, somebody forgot their dirty panties on the side of the street in waikiki. do you recognize them?? haha…

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide