check out my 5 fin matchi shape TSSC board i was riding in the mentawai. it’s only a 5’6 but can handle anything and any size. it’s in japan now and i wish i could have brought it back to hawaii because i would love to ride it here. but $150/each way is just too much to spend. the good thing is that when i go back to japan at the end of this month to surf a typhoon, the first thing i will pick up is this board. can’t wait!
so cool to see my nephews exploring other surf spots, and getting barreled. the first time i surfed this spot was in 1981. it was kind of freaky because it wasn’t even a surf spot. a big thick barreling wave over reef that sticks up? crazy! it’s still crazy and i remember taking my friend out there a few years ago. he wiped out, his leash got stuck on the reef, he almost drowned, paddled in, and told me “never again!” and that’s the last time i surfed with him. haha.
thanks kyle and cat for the awesome memory. see you guys again soon!
and to my okinawa friends, i’m planning to go there when the next super typhoon hits. surf day, hard reef night. just keep the snake sake away from me. haha.
and to our go-naminori dream team travelers. guess what? Good news! San Souci 2 RETURNS! yeah, the San Souci 2 is back in the mentawai’s! i’m going to book a charter for next near so stay tuned!!!!
