good morning. 7:30am here in uchizuma. seems like the south swell is still going but it’s come down a bit. i’m going to relax today. maybe jump in the water for a snorkel later. gosh, shikoku is so beautiful. japan paradise…. have a beautiful day….[:??????:]
here is akayan-san and matchi talking story after a surf. we were sitting here for 30 minutes and my body started to overheat. it was 100 degrees and burning hot. i needed to get some water so i was out of there. gosh, i must be drinking about three 2L bottles of water a day. at $2/each, that’s $6/day. so my water bill in japan comes out to $180/month. you people back in hawaii better appreciate the clean fresh free tap water….
this was my long drive back home yesterday. i had my ipod on listening to kalapana and singing karaoke in the car. haha. it was such a happy drive back home. i guess any drive back home is happy when you score epic waves….
this guy was flying on his bike following this car. if the car was to slam the breaks, the bicycle guy is history….
ok, i’ve drove down this road over 100 times with matchi. every single time, he tells me about seeing monkeys here. i don’t believe him because i’ve never seen them for myself. and i think he knows i don’t believe him. anyway, on the way back the other day, i was in a deep sleep in the passenger seat of his car. all of a sudden, matchi yells out loud “kirby, kirby” and slams his breaks. he scared the shit out of me. i thought we were going to get into an accident or something. i almost had a freakin heart attack. he stopped in the middle of the road and said “look, monkeys”…. my heart was pumping so fast but my mind was still asleep. there were 2 monkeys running in the middle of road. was it a dream???? no, it was real. after that, it took a while for my heart beat to go back to normal. thanks matchi for showing me the monkeys. now i believe you…. but next time, don’t freak me out again… i’m getting too old for that…. haha….
