wow, i just figured out how to take clips off some old videos i have. from now on, your going to see things from the past 15 years in japan. everywhere i use to go, i took my video camera with me. got some classic footage. stay tuned….
1992 was the first time i came to shikoku. tokura-san brought me here and that’s when i met barrels owner, ishino-san. we pulled up to this river mouth and nobody was out. the waves were freaking going off. i grabbed my board and was surfing out there by myself for an hour. ishino-san grabbed my video camera and took some footage. 1 guy surfing a perfect barreling river mouth by himself is unheard of. that was the first and probably the last time i will experience something like that…..
after coming out of the barrel, you have so much speed that you can do what ever the heck you want. i was riding for local motion back then and i was riding a 6’4 wade tokoro. i remember that because i broke it right after this wave. i almost cried..
this was 2 days ago. i guess i can say i’ve been surfing here for the past 15 years. i’m not a local, i’m just a lucky ass guy with friends that know what’s up. thanks to all who have made my dream come true….[:????????$B!r(B:]
