i woke up and checked the waves yesterday in the morning. bowls looked small but i seen some nice swell lines coming in at diamond head. i knew the waves were going to be better than the day before but i was wrong!
it wasn’t just better, it was much better! matsu and i paddled out and there were only a few surfers in the water. seen maki-san and trisha, then came kyle. yeah, it was just us at the peak sharing perfect waves. then it just got better and better and longer and longer. long perfect lefts and rights with no wind. none of us could believe how good it was and was wondering where everybody was. lots of off the lips, lots of smiles, and lots of fun. it’s days like this that are special! i love surfing! i just can’t get enough of it. sunburned and all, i’m ready to surf again, again, and again!
it’s only day 2 for matsu and he’s a pretty happy surfer. i seen him get a lot of super long and fast waves. he was ripping!
then we went shopping for our beach BBQ for tonight. it’s kimura-san’s last night and we are just going to hang out at the beach, surf, swim, eat, and enjoy this beautiful saturday. if you want to come down, we will be at the hilton lagoon. opps, i forgot to buy beer.
steaks, spareribs, salad, sausage, shrimp, and more! i can’t wait!
i spent 1 minute on the beach explaining to kimura-san how to surf. he got on the board, he paddled out, and stood up on his first wave. yes, it was that easy! with a strong mind, you can do anything. good job kimura-san. hopefully we can go surfing together in japan someday!
