before i left hawaii, i took a walk around my house. i was looking at the mountains and everything was so green. and the air so clear. i thought to myself how lucky i am to be born and raised in hawaii….
then i took a look at my neighbors mango tree. there were ripe juicy mangos everywhere. some even rotting on the ground. i guess people in hawaii don’t know how much mangos are worth in japan. it’s like gold….
check out kazubo-san and kazuma coming out of the water from a surf in okinawa. 2 great surfers….
we were surfing this point right that broke over knee high deep water with razor sharp reef. there’s no way you can go left but kimura-san somehow found a way. i thought it was pretty crazy…
**and last, i told you that i was going to post photos from yesterdays session. i thought about it again and decided not too. a lot of people already know where i am and out of respect for the locals, i will post the photos when the waves drop. which i hope ain’t anytime soon… have a beautiful day!!![:?????$B!x(B???:]
