ohayo gozaimasu. 5:40am tuesday morning. the waves on the north shore are GOING OFF!!! it’s about 4′ now and should be 6-8′ later today. no winds so the conditions are epic!!! i’m out of here.. see you in the water….
gosh, 2007 japan typhoon season seemed so long ago. so many things went on since i got back to hawaii that i forgot all about “the day” in japan. this was sept. 5, 2007 in shikoku. yes, japan. i remember paddling out super stoked. the waves were big and perfect and i knew i was going to get big barrels. that’s how perfect it was. just take off, set the rail, and puinsai. i swear some 10′ big sets came in. we call those “obake sets” in japanese. obake means ghost. and yes, there were a few ghost sets that i had to dive under on. got drilled and held down pretty long. but getting pounded is normal. you have to if you want to get a good wave like this. this one was a double up in the inside. you wait there, be prepared for the obake sets… was this one worth it? oh yeah. i got barreled and spit out. kinsan was there and got the sickest photos. check out the next Surf1st magazine coming out today in japan. and somebody please bring me a copy…. arigato….
and check out this killer dove ad in the new Surf1st. hayato in chiba wearing the perfect camo wetsuit for surfing….. and diving….
***and please vote for colt brennan for the heisman trophy winner… VOTE HERE….
