good evening. what a super super duper day of surfing. left early this morning and and pulled up to off the wall. this is what it looked like….
this was at 7:30am. off the wall had solid 5′ sets and some super barrels. backdoor was a little smaller and not too many guys out. the sand is finally off the beach and the waves are finally barreling…. paddled out to backdoor and had the adrenaline rush. felt like making do do. i don’t know if it was the exciting feeling? or the nervous feeling? it was my first surf of the season out there and it always happens… but after my first wave, it all went away. nao was waiting patiently on the beach so after a few waves, i went in, jumped in the car, and headed straight to the spot. 3-5′ V-land. yeah, v-land was going off!! 10 out of a 10 as far as condition and size. got a few barrels and nao was the only one surfing the inside bowl. i don’t think she know’s how lucky she was. where was everybody today?? and yes, nao caught more waves than me again….
after our awesome session, took nao to watch a few heats at the roxy pro at sunset. the waves were pretty good and the girls were ripping!!! in a few years, nao will be in this contest for sure….
7/11/27 11:27….. trippy…
it started raining so we were about to come back to town. asked nao if she wanted to surf. she said yes! so took a drive by haleiwa and oh my gosh…. it was going offfff…… 4-6′ perfect off the point and only a few guys out. no wind, no crowd, and most important, no current. jumped in to get a few but my few was fewer than nao’s. once again, she caught more waves than me. this is what i have to say about surfing. the only way to get better is to surf more by catching a lot of waves. nao came 1 week ago and her surfing level went up 2 notches. she must have caught more than 50 waves today on the north shore at the most crowded time of the year. i thought i caught a lot of waves…. oh well… but yeah, v-land in the morning, then haleiwa in the afternoon were the places to be…. sorry you missed it….
today is nao’s birthday. she is 15 years old now. kelia was calling me all day to ask when we were coming back to town. the girls wanted to hang out so dropped them off at kahala mall. happy birthday nao!!!
and wanted to wish kenji sahara a happy birthday too…. your shot of jacksan will be waiting for you in hawaii. see ya soon…
came home today and check my email. got this from gordinho. this was my first wave i caught this morning at backdoor. barreled baby!!!! so stoked!!! a great way to start off the season. getting barreled is so dam addicting. once you get one, you just want more and more. i can’t wait till tomorrow…. thanks gordinho….
