good evening. what a long hot day! seen lots of friends, caught some good waves, and took some nice photos. i started to forget how it feels in a barrel but today, the feeling came back. after all, in the barrel is where i want to be.
things change fast when you have two storms off japan. and as we were planning to spend 3 days in shikoku, things changed in a flash. i’m in the car typing this blog while we’re starting our journey that will take us 14 hours to get us to our next destination. did we make the right choice? we will just have to find out tomorrow morning. we slept in the parked car last night, and tonight we will be sleeping in a moving car. the journey continues!!!
i woke up to the sound of the ocean. it was still dark, but not dark enough to see. i wax my board, i paddle out, matsu grabs my camera and takes this photo. the $1,700 i paid for this new lens already paid off for me. a golden early morning barrel to remember. this is what i love to do. this is what i travel to do. and this is what keeps my mind sane. thanks matsu for taking my cool golden sunrise barrel shot!
8 boards broke today. it had the same kind of power we have back on the north shore of hawaii. i’m lucky i didn’t break mine. shinpei wasn’t so lucky.
check out this location! every time i come here, my mind goes at ease. no buildings, no city lights, and no bullshit. it’s just mother nature and you.
i was too tired to download the photos i took yesterday. this is just one of the many. the new slim toda-san doing a roller coaster!
**we should be our next surf spot tomorrow morning around 7:30am. i’ll be tired, but once i see a barrel, i’ll wake up! wish us a safe drive and hope you’re having as much as fun as we are. aloha!
