surfing in japan is like going on a surf trip. i like it because you just don’t know what you will encounter. my last trip to japan was probably the busiest 3 days in my surfing career. to surf 3 river mouths in 3 days in 3 prefectures with perfect conditions is unheard of. things couldn’t have worked out any better. great surf mates, great forecast, and great barrels. i still want to apologize to everybody about my selfishness. i just wanted to be at the right place at the right time and i did anything to make it happen. we scored, we have the photos, and we will never forget our 3 day road trip that covered half of japan. check out my hideaway!
i can’t even explain how hot it was that day. and i can’t even explain how hot the sand was too. it’ surprising none of us passed out. see all the debris? that’s not from the tsunami. that’s from the rain that happened last month. just piles and piles of debris on the beach. you have to do what you have to do to keep cool.
between matsu, toda-san, tomoyuki-san, and i, i think we took over 3000 photos. i’m too busy to post them but i promise you i will. this is a little small perfect left at another secret river mouth. the waves got 3x bigger after this so we all went surfing!
and last, speaking of debris, can you believe that there are full houses and stuff still floating around in the pacific ocean? that’s pretty crazy.
anyway, planning another typhoon chasing the end of this month. can my friends let me know the scoops? i hope i get more relax time and more time to spend with my friends. just so much happening and so much to talk about. but first, gotta get back to work. have a great day!
