good morning. after 3 solid days of surfing, i think i’m getting back to normal. and making up for all those days i missed in the water. the waves were coming up yesterday in the evening so i’m going surfing now. be back later but first, check out these photos….
oh, i had another thing to say. it couldn’t be in my wildest dreams to be living the surfers travel life i am today. here i am on an island off japan, the waves are perfect everyday, the people are so kind, everything is so green, the water is really clean, i’m staying in a huge house by myself overlooking this beautiful bay, and my boards are a porsche parked right outside. every morning after i wake up, i lock the door to a $1,000,000 house, i start the engine to a $150,000 porsche, and drive to one of the best waves japan has to offer. can it get any better than this??? LIFE IS GOOD!![:?????$B!x(B???:]
i’ve known yasan since i’ve been coming to japan. we had some beers the other night and i was just wondering how many beers we had together for the past 17 years? maybe 2,000? anyway, thanks for all the support and good memories. kanpai yasan[:?????????:]
can you believe i’m driving this car to the beach? i can’t….
i went to the supermarket last night called moana market. as soon as i walked in, they were playing my favorite hawaiian song of all time. “Ku’u Home O Kahalu’u” by olomana. gosh, i had chicken skin and wondered where the heck i was??? and yes, i actually got home sick….
i felt like i was in a candy store. i wanted to buy everything and eat it. i wish the supermarkets in hawaii were like this…
