good evening. wow, 6 solid days of surfing and i’m not even tired. 3 rounds a day and my legs are feeling pretty good. the waves have been so good that it’s too hard to resist. and to have 6 boards in my car to choose from, surfing is the only thing on my mind now. my shoulder? i got use to the pain. it hurts a lot but i’m getting use to bitting my tongue. i got some great photos and wish i could have taken more but i’d rather be surfing. check out some of the action but keep in mind that i’m saving my best shots for something special so you will just have to wait to see those….
this was yassan today driving off the bottom on a nice wave. after this, he pulled into the barrel and made it. he was riding his 6’2 glenn minami. go yassan!!!!
matchi has a great life. when the waves are going off, surf all day. when the waves are flat, shape surfboards. and the best part of it is that he gets to try his own surfboards made by his own hands. i think that’s pretty awesome…..
and i don’t know who this bodyboard girl is but she was waiting in the inside and got some nice barrels. go girl!!!
**well, today is coming to an end and tomorrow is tomorrow. i’m going to do what i’ve been doing since i got here. wake up at 4am, get barreled, and surf all day long…. have a great evening and see you in the water tomorrow…
