good morning. i’ve been getting emails from people in hawaii, brazil, and australia asking me where this spot is. i don’t even bother responding to them because there’s no way in the world that i’m saying where. i’ve been coming to japan by myself and travel around by myself for a reason. everywhere i go, i respect the locals and think it would be disrespectful to bring a car full of surfer friends with me. 15 years ago, sunny garcia and john shimoka asked me if they could join me for some typhoon swells in japan. i said “no”. and that answer will never change.
surfing is a culture here in japan like in any other country. respect is the key. respect the locals and follow the rules. i understand because i’m from hawaii, where localism is probably the worst in the world. if you disrespect locals in hawaii, you will get punched in the face and your board will be broken in half with a kick. and that’s if your lucky. here in japan, i don’t even want to know what happens if you disrespect the locals. i get scared even thinking about it…
**now let’s change the subject. check out more action from this little secret island that’s located somewhere in north indonesia. haha…
ueda-san’s a power surfer. what reminds me the most about ueda-san is the 2 years ago session at an outer island when he pulled into the barrel of a monster 10′ set. that was freakin nuts. and going left at this spot is pretty nuts too. you can’t see it in this photo but there are huge concrete tetrapods like 4 meters away. and if you hit them, they aren’t going to move….
kohei-san surfs with style. one of the smoothest surfers in japan. one thing about kohei-san i will never forget is this photo of him standing in a 8′ barrel on a poster i seen when i first came to this island. i think that photo is over 20 years old…. i always wanted a photo like that of myself…
and tamaki-san. i’m so sorry about the misprint in the translation. here’s what i wrote that day on my english blog…
with every good day of surf anywhere around the world, there is always one guy, or one wave that stands out. whether it be pipeline, j-bay, or japan, somebody gets the wave of the day. and it doesn’t matter if your a pro surfer or not. yesterday’s day was tamaki-san’s day. i was sitting on the top of the jetty and luckily i had my camera. i took a 31 shot sequence of this wave and when you see the rest, it will blow your mind. congratulations tamaki-san for monday, august 31 wave of the day!!!
my blogs get translated from english to japanese so sometimes the japanese characters get mixed up. i know your name is tamaki-san and not takami-san. i hope you understand…. and by the way, your tube is still the best one so far that i’ve seen the week….
**CLICK HERE FOR MY ENGLISH GO-NAMINORI BLOG…
**CLICK HERE FOR MY JAPANESE GO-NAMINORI BLOG.
-just to let you know that my english blogs are posted sooner than the japanese ones. it takes a little time to have them translated. mahalo for your patience…
