good morning. wow, surf, surf, and surf. i haven’t surfed so much in my life and i’m still hungry for barrels. usually i’d be burnt out already but the waves are so fun that i can’t help but surf, surf, and surf…. surfing 3 rounds a day and shooting 2 rounds everyday hasn’t made me that tired yet. i think that last month must have charged up my batteries because i feel like i can go on forever. check out the action from saturday and sunday…
this is TSSC shaper tsukurimichi-san yesterday going off the bottom. tsukurimichi-san shaped me a magic 5’9 single fin that i forgot in shonan. shit, i wish i had it with me because i want to try it out here….
the little wild kairi got such a nice barrel. i with i could show you the photo but it’s a keeper. this was the take off and if you seen how big that barrel was for him, you would freak. i asked him after if he was scared. he said “no”. not too many 10 year olds would have pulled into the barrel he pulled into…
the tube spit so hard that it sent the wild kairi in the air. this is sequence #13. sick tube kid…
this is my friend Dr. Sato-san. sato-sensei is the owner and head doctor of a big hospital in shikoku. not only is he a doctor, sato-sensei’s also a surfer. i took him surfing one day in hawaii out at 6′ haleiwa. well, i actually forced him to paddle out. the waves were huge and he somehow survived. we had dinner the other night and were talking about that experience. sato-sensei told me that he thought he was going to die that day. i told him “dr. sato, don’t worry, your not going to die because i will pull you out and give you CPR… haha… he didn’t think that was too funny. anyway, thank you for the wonderful dinner sato-sensei. and that’s a cool t-shirt you have on…. [:?????$B!x(B???:]
how cool is it to be a doctor and a surfer? shit, this guy must get all the chicks. haha.. nice wave you got yesterday sato-sensei….
