December 7th- A Day to Remember….

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good morning. it was raining all last night and still is. i forgot what the sun looked like already. got south winds blowing so town is unsurfable. the north shore cleaned up a little but still bumpy. looks 3-5′ and nobody’s surfing as of now. i don’t think anybody’s surfing anywhere right now. maybe east side? umm… winds supposed to turn back to trades tomorrow. just have to wait and see. pipeline masters waiting period starting tomorrow. hopefully the next swell on tuesday can get things started. well, have a wet day and drive safe….

on december 7th, 1941, the japanese bombed pearl harbor just before 8am. that’s exactly 66 years ago today. over 2400 people died and it was the start to WW II. i remember asking my grandpa what he was doing that morning of the attack. he told me he heard the bombs and ran outside into a bunker he made. he said he was really scared. gosh, i could imagine how he was feeling. it must have been so loud and felt like the world was ending. my grandpa was second generation japanese/american so he was caught right in the middle. i don’t like talking about the war but every time december 7th comes around, it makes me think. war sucks!! nobody wins. nobody is right. war is wrong period…. we’re in the middle of a war right now and nobody is winning. young men and women are dying every single day. haven’t we learned yet? i guess not….

**because i’m american, i learned our side of the war as i was growing up. our school books made the japanese look 100% wrong. in japan, it must have been the same. us americans probably looked 100% wrong. but after i went to hiroshima, i found out that we were both wrong. and if japanese visited pearl harbor, i’m sure they will feel the same way. nobody won that war…. anyway, today is a day to remember the lives lost at pearl harbor….

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
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https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide