Japanese Surf Trip: Pohnpei….

306

good evening. rain rain go away!! gosh, you’ve been here so long. just go away… wow, am i talking to the rain? this wet dark weather is making me crazy. and probably making a lot of other people crazy too. imagine saving months and months of salary to take your dream surf trip to hawaii’s north shore? and when you get there, it’s raining everyday. and to make things worst, the waves suck. and to make things moreworst, the electricity goes out for 2 days and there is nothing to do. if you came here 2 weeks ago, you must be bumming right now. i’m starting to go crazy with this weather and i can just imagine how the tourists are feeling. drove out to the east side today because it’s the only side the water is semi-clean. i saw a japanese couple walking in the rain along sandy beach all soaked. i felt sorry for them….

once passed makapuu, the water got clean and the winds were off-shore. 30mph + but off-shore. it was raining pretty hard that you could barely see rabbit island…

then the sun came out for 15 minutes and looked like the hawaii i’m use to seeing. makapuu shorebreak was going off. if i was a bodyboarder, i would be in heaven. bodysurfed one wave and almost broke my neck. not a good call. started to rain again shortly after and is still raining now. ugly yucky day….

this is how hawaii supposed to look like. this is waimea bay last summer. it don’t look anything like this right now and will take a while for the brown water to clean up. i can’t wait for the sun to come back out…
**tokura-san and the crew just got back from pohnpei, micronesia. check out some of the photos….

going surfing…. i think i’ve been in this same river. went there 10 years or so ago. all i remember was “rain, rain, and rain”… pohnpei is supposed to be one of the wettest places in the world. beautiful, but wet….

tokura-san told me they have the perfect setup. japanese food everyday even with a japanese menu. sounds so oishi….

and he told me the waves were good and barreling. i’m jealous… when i went there, the only thing that was barreling was my shower….

this is tokura-san and hiromichi-san. two great surfers. heard they had a great time surfing awesome waves. more photos coming later….

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide