Typhoon Chasers!

286

good evening. how hot was it today? gosh, i thought i was going to faint again. the hot sun, the sweat, the long walks, and humidity just takes a lot out of my body. i’m just not use to this kind of weather and i don’t know if i ever will. i feel tired all day and if i don’t load myself with lots of water, i will pass out for sure. 1 more week of this hot weather is forecasted. i hope i last.
photo 1
on any clear day in japan, you can see mt. fuji from miles and miles away. when ever i see it, i get happy. my grandparents climbed it. i climbed it. and every time i see it, i get power. mt. fuji is probably my top power spot in the world! and imaging getting barreled and when you come out, you see this huge mountain right in front of you? i did that 3x this morning and nobody will ever know how happy i was. the best feeling in the world.
photo 4
surfing secret spots in japan is like a safari. hard to get find, hard to get too, and when you finally get out to the lineup, the locals are king. every spot has different faces and every spot has a different wave. kind of cool exploring this country looking for surf.
photo 3
and with cool people, you see cool things. check out this classic mini cooper. i love it!
wp201216_5day
today is today, tomorrow is tomorrow. i don’t know where i’m going, i don’t know where i’ll be, and i don’t know what will happen. when you chase typhoons, you have to be prepared for anything and everything. i’m ready!

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide