i didn’t realize how lucky i am to have so many friends all around japan. i usually travel around by myself so my friends always go out of their way when i stop by. from picking me up from the airport or train station, to getting my nice warm bed ready, to organizing my surfboards, and to even getting my jacksan and coke ready. this trip really woke me up and made me realize how good friends are important and how each and every one of my friends impact my life in some way. i’m traveling around japan experiencing so many things tourists can only dream of. i feel in place, i feel comfortable, i feel welcomed, and i feel great. so just wanted to say thank you to each and every friend i have here. thank you for understanding my job, my passion, and my selfishness. if it wasn’t for you all, i wouldn’t be here right now. as for this photo, i took it of my 2 wonderful friends todasan and takamisan the other morning as we were checking the waves. 2 important people in my life.
each place i go to, there are different faces, different waves, and different food. this is a sashimi platter from shizuoka. fresh and exciting!
we don’t have this kind of sashimi in hawaii so i’m eating like a king up here.
my favorite is hamachi, ika, ikura, and uni. winner!
somebody please slap me in the face already. i feel like this is an everlasting dream. everybody’s been asking me if i came to japan for this typhoon. well, i use to chase typhoons for the past 20 years and would fly here once a typhoon formed. but now, my schedule isn’t as flexible so i have to plan these trips months in advance and just take the chance. last trip worked out great. this one too. i couldn’t have had the best timing to take my vacation. this was today in west japan at one of the heaviest localized spots in the world. my surfer friend kensuke-san on a big one! today was solid 6′ with bigger sets. i’ve been coming here for the past 14 years and today was the best i’ve ever seen this place. it was amazing! thank you to all the locals for sharing the waves and for always being so kind to me. i really appreciate it!
and last, here is how people in china protect themselves from the sun. can i order one for me off amazon? haha. i’m so dam sunburned it isn’t even funny.
tomorrow will be big again. OMG. when is my vacation really going to start? surf first, play later. have a wonderful evening.
