ANOTHER WORLD CHAMPION?

288

good evening. it’s getting cold here in japan. last night i was freezing riding my bike back from the train station. i don’t know how people ride bikes in the winter here. and i also didn’t know you can get drunk driving riding a bicycle here. crazy yeah? anyway, i’m almost done with work so i’m packing up my bags and hopefully going home soon. this typhoon season has been a great one for me. i surfed good waves, got barreled, dove good spots, caught a lot of fish, took cool photos, explored, and had experiences that will last a lifetime. i’m tired, but happy!!! have a great evening….

i was in shikoku watching the waves when this grandpa photographer pulled up next to me. he kept on talking and talking to me and i was just saying “hai, hai”…. i understood maybe 20% of what he was saying. i still don’t understand the different types of japanese and it confuses me. i guess it’s impossible for me to understand every dialect because i don’t think your regular japanese guy from tokyo would understand it either…

i was taking a nap under this bridge in koichi prefecture waiting for matchi to come in from surfing. then i saw a fisherman so i went to talk to him. this time, i think i only understood 5% of what he was saying. then i remembered something. 15 years ago, i borrowed matchi’s car and drove 3 hours into the country by myself. i couldn’t understand japanese back then so when i got lost, i got lost. i thought i’d never make my way back to his house. it was fun, but i got scared when it started to get dark….

and last, wanted to congratulate jeff hubbard for winning the bb contest!!! another world champion?
**CLICK HERE TO FOLLOW JEFF HUBBARD TO ANOTHER WORLD CHAMPION….

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide